As part of our continuing service to our clients we offer this piece of information

A new roof is a big job. And a big investment. That's why we strongly recommend that you hire a professional roofing contractor who can offer proven experience, a written estimate and worry-free installation. To make sure you're choosing the best, use our handy checklist before you sign a contract:

Does the contractor:

1. Have a good reputation?
   Check for references and call a few of them.
    
2. Have adequate insurance coverage?
   Protect your home from accidental damage
    
3. Thoroughly inspect your roof?
   Including flashing chimney, soil stacks, other roof
   penetration, deck, plus attic
    
4. Provide a written estimate?
   Including an accurate description of the work to be performed, plus work that may have to be contracted out?
    
5. Explain the entire roof system?
   Your roof is a series of components that work together; you should know all about them.
    
6. Check existing ventilation for proper circulation?
   Explain the importance of ventilation?
   Improper ventilation will damage your shingles and can invalidate your manufacturer's warranty.
    
7. Explain reasons for tearing off versus nailing over the existing roof?
   Local codes determine the maximum number of nail-overs.
    
8. Know, explain and comply with local building codes?
    
9. Apply underlayment to the wood deck?
   Additional waterproofing underlayment might be needed if ice damming, wind-driven rain, or collected or flowing water might be a problem.
    
10. Apply shingles according to manufacturer's specifications?
     
11. Use proper fastening techniques?
    Four fasteners for each shingle - six in high wind areas. Fasteners should penetrate 3/4" into the deck.
     
12. Commit to supervise the job during all phases of work and inspect it completely when finished?
     
13. Thoroughly clean up your roof and around your house when finished? Remove all surplus material? Leave your yard in the same shape the contractor found it?
     
14. Clearly explain both the workmanship and manufacturer's warranty? Are defective shingles replaced for prorated replacement cost, or original cost, with labor additional? You should be very clear about who to call with a problem.
     
15. Offer any additional warranty coverage?
     
16. Use quality roofing materials?
    Check warranty plus UL fire and wind resistance ratings. Choose a name you trust - not all shingles are the same.

Questions

Q. How do I know if I need a new roof. What do I look for?

A. Look for trouble on your roof before it causes problems inside your home.

Check for:
Clawing, .Buckling, Cracking, Curling, Missing or damaged shingles, Cracks in asphalt valleys, Missing or cracked caulking along flashing.

Terminology

Venting - Proper ventilation is a must. Warm air build-up in the attic or air space can prematurely deteriorate your roof and make your home uncomfortably warm in the summer and cause condensation in the attic in the winter. If you can, look at the underside of your roof sheeting on a cold day in the winter, if there is frost there you will know something needs to be done to improve the ventilation.

On a pitched roof with an attic there should be one sq. ft. of venting for every 300 square feet of attic space. There are a variety of prefinished roof vents on the market today: regular gravity roof vents (most commonly used), turbine roof vents and powered roof vents. Homes with cathedral ceilings must have continuous venting along the ridge.

Flashings - are installed along walls, chimneys and other structures which protrude above the roof.
Where the roof slopes away from a structure a one piece flashing may be used. Where the roof is perpendicular to a structure a two-part step flashing and cope flashing system must be used. These flashings are made of prefinished steel or aluminum, copper or lead. The flashing makes a mechanical seal at the roof line which will last the life of the roof and which looks good.

Valleys - Where two slopes of the roof meet, a valley is formed where a majority of run-off water will travel. We install pre-finished steel valleys with an underlay.

Eaves protection is installed under the shingles along the bottom edge of the roof. This prevents water from ice dams from penetrating to the roof sheeting and into your home. A 15 lb. felt asphalt paper is generally used. For the best protection an ice and water shield can be installed. The ice and water shield adheres to the roof sheeting and when the shingles are nailed on over the ice and water shield seals around the nails. This material does not prevent ice dams, but it does stop leakage into your home. Eaves protection should extend at least one foot beyond the interior of the house wall.

Drip edge or eaves starter is a formed metal installed at the bottom of a roof to ensure the run-off water enters into the eaves trough. This is more of a consideration for lower pitched roofs.